Wednesday, December 26, 2012

Telbaila ascent- Just a slice of bread

Telbaila Left-right side


With the successful climb of Khada Parsi Milind and I turned our attention to Telbaila. I had seen the walls during a trek to Dhangad. The route to both the walls was through the col between the walls.

One fine day, Milind and I motorcycled to Lonavala. I was the pillion rider and was carrying a sack full of equipment. The road was a dirt track and Milind was driving the bike to its limit. At several spots I had tough time managing the overloaded sack which hung on my back in overhang state. By the time we reached the village close to Telbaila, my arms were already taut.

The people in the village showed us a route to the col.

We lost our way in the jungle and traversed the walls. We did not find any route from the back we traversed the two walls till we got on to the ridge. The travel and the detour had cost us lot of energy. I roped up to be the first man. The left wall has pitons driven in at anchor points and I started climbing. As I had climbed the first pitch I heard a screech from the top.

A monkey was looking down at me. It was trying to fetch my attention and to dissuade the climb. As I looked up again it was in a leg up head down position screaming. I was terrified as it might easily toss a small pebble at me. I was not even anchored to the first piton. Although I appreciated the climber in the monkey I ignored and continued to the piton. I hooked myself and continued to traverse to the left. I anchored myself and belayed Milind to the ledge. The ledge was wide but the route above the ledge has a slight overhang. Just underneath the expansion bolt there is a small cave with water. (The villagers prefer to use a ladder to get directly to this place.) I had to use the etriers, as my arms were already to stiffened to pull up my body. It was an easy climb to the top.

We had planned to climb the Left side of the right wall on the same day but it was very late.
We had to get down and bike to Pune and so we decided to climb it on a future date.



Telbaila Right-Right


The right wall of Telbaila had only two ascents and it was a good goal. The route faces the village. Milind and I travelled to the village and it was evening when we decided to stay in a small cave dug in the rock. It was late afternoon and I decided to start the climb.

I climbed for around a 100 feet and there were 2 anchors for safety. The route took me to a sharp edged ridge and I descended after hooking on the climbing rope. A few villagers had climbed up to watch the climb. Milind gave the belay to one of the guys and I self anchored to a piton. Milind took few good snaps of the climb.

At night we had food and slept inside the small square shaped cave.

Early next morning Milind led the climb. He quickly ascended to the top spot without Jummars. I joined him as he reached the arĂȘte. The ridge is so sharp that I had to ride with legs on either side.

The next pitch was the crux of the climb. It consists of a loose scree and the climber has to be very fast. Milind cleared it with some effort and he yelled that he had reached a large platform. I joined him. The final pitch was along an overhang that already was secured by bolts. Milind continued the climb using the etriers. The portion above was easy and we quickly got to the top.

We descended the wall in a single rapell as we had sufficient rope.

The entire climb was done in only 2.5 hours. We rode back to Pune after celebrating the ascent, rewarding ourselves with Beer.