IT WAS MY 3rd EXPEDITION in 6 months.
The porters had abandoned us at the moraine of Bhagirathi glacier which was
much before the scheduled Base camp at Vasuki Tal.
I had been to this place thrice before.
The first was during a solo hike from Tapovan during the Meru Expedition. The
second was during the failed climb of Bhagirathi with Surendra when my Boots
broke. The third was during the pre-Everest attempt on Bhagirathi2.
THE MORRAINE TOP had barely enough space
to house two tents and my tent hung over a slope. But it was just for a day or
two. I was glad to be with the five man team,
Sunil, Mahavir, Vikrant and myself with our porter Sonam. Sonam was glad to
climb with Mahavir as they had a past alliance for an old expedition.
We had travelled for two days from
Gangotri to reach this approach camp. It was a good old alpine attempt that I
had missed for many years. Vikrant had tried to woo a girl and she had brushed
him off. Perhaps this was a good time to climb Satopanth and show her his
caliber. Mahavir and I smiled at this pursuit. I said, “You should be good enough
only to please yourself. Rest falls in place. She may not be good match for you
after all. You will find a better girl!”
WE DESCENDED into the glacier crossing a
few crevasses. Since the porters had
left us we had to perform two load ferries to the base. The moraine wall on the
other side was pretty steep 50 feet and frozen ice lay beneath. Sonam found a
way. None of us wanted a fixed rope as we would be travelling over this ground
only two times during approach.
It was early may and we descended on the
other side of the moraine in a large snow bowl. It was knee deep snow and we
plunged the axes to find solid ground. None existed.
Sonam mentioned, “ We just walked over
Vasuki Tal.” It was hard to believe that this was a lake. We marched ahead
along the Sundar Glacier and the Morraine ended into a small green basin. This
was a perfect campsite. Sonam mentioned, “ This was the base camp that I talked
about.” We had a quick snack and travelled back. The same day we did another
load ferry.
We moved our tents and gear to the “Base
camp” at 16000 feet. Satopanth was just over the shoulder though we did not see
it from the base.
Sonam made tea under the Kitchen canvas
and I went trigger happy capturing the various moods of Vasuki Parvat that
towered above us. My Nichormat camera was working well. The spotlight meter was
out of order and I was using my judgment.
WE TRAVERSED the debris from Vasuki and descended onto Satopanth Glacier. We were
marking the terrain with Red flags. The glacier was under lot of snow, which
meant good early progress and a late tiresome return when the snow turned into
sludge in afternoon. We pushed all the gear and rations in the first ferry and
shifted to Camp1 (17000’) on the later day.
The progress that our small team made in
deep snow conditions was commendable. We were aware of the fact that we did not
reach the start of the icefall to lay the camp as per our plan. It meant a
longer travel over the glacier, up the icefall and up the wall towards the camp
on ridge.
THE GRAVEYARD
In 1986, when I was learning the ABC of
rock climbing, Pune lost three of its veteran climbers on Mt Satopanth in an
avalanche.(Dr Minoo Mehta, Nandu Page and Bharat Mangre).
We passed along the region. Nasty seracs on the right side and the wall on
left, we reached a tiny chute. There was an old rope hanging from the exposed
rock . We agreed that it was easier to enter the graveyard and approach the
snow slope. Mahavir led the climb and the others followed. I had a bad blister
above the heel due to the smaller climbing boot and front pointing was the last
thing on the mind.
I was alone in the graveyard with all
sorts of creepy thoughts. It was the worst place to be in case of an avalanche,
as the entire face of Satopanth rose above me and the sheer wall that rose to
the Sharp ridge on my left. With luck, in the two hours of loneliness, there
was no avalanche and My friends returned after fixing the rope upto an easier
slope.
We were carrying less rope, just enough
to push us up the slope towards easy terrain. The same rope would have to be
removed and fixed wherever needed on the razor sharp ridge. I hoped that there
would be plenty of rope left by prior expeditions that we could hook to in dire
conditions.
We descended to Camp 1. I was the last
one in the team as the descent left worse wounds on the tender skin above the
Heel.
I DECIDED TO WITHDRAW from the climb
as a snow snail like me would disrupt the speed. Mahavir had counted on me
heavily. Sanjay was not at his best. The good team was Mahavir, Sonam and
Vikrant. It took me some time to convince Sanjay. He was not a good climber for
a touch climb. I believed that Sonam would be a perfect support for Mahavir.
The weather had been perfect and I was sure that the three would be able to
return in 4 days. Since we had no Walky Talky, we would
blink the torch. The Torch would be waved up and down in case there was a
disaster and we needed to climb up.
The trio left us and we watched their progress on the slope. Since they were loaded, they took some time
to reach the pinnacle base. Then they vanished from our site. We were happy
that they had reached the high camp before the ridge. Sanjay and I chatted and
cooked. He told me of his Mumbai Pune Cycle race and we talked about cycles and
technology. I was not aware why the imported cycles were so expensive, but he
mentioned that they made a big difference.
At
night we so the torch on the ridge at the scheduled time. All is well!
I said, “So, tomorrow is crucial as they
cross the ridge.” We were in a much cozier situation than our friends on the
top ridge of Satopanth. I wished that I had some way to numb my feet. I missed
this climb a lot. Anyway, I had taken the decision and the harm was done. It
was a bad idea to take Sanjay to Camp2 as he would need some assistance at high
places.
We
woke on the next morning and gazed outside. The sky was spotless and the snowy
glacier bathed in the sun. Snow had gone soft and wet and underneath our tent
had a pool of water. We saw the three spots on the last hump approaching the
ridge. From here, we would not see them till they reached higher up on the
ridge. We cooked some noodles. Around noon, we saw the three dots again.
Something had not gone well. I knew that they would not come back otherwise.
At night we again saw “All is well”
signal and we went to sleep.
Next
morning we saw the three come down from the slope. By late afternoon, they were
down at the basin. We melted water and travelled to the base of the icefall. The
snow was soggy and I had tough time with my injury. I met Mahavir and took his
load. He narrated the story of the earlier day. He and Vikrant had roped up and
started along the ridge. There was lot of snow and they could not find any
fixed rope on the ridge. Vikrant slipped on the ice and took a fall. Mahavir
was on guard and arrested the fall. They decided to return as there was lot of
risk.
Mahavir said, “I am sure that with you, I
could have done it.” I felt sad to let him down but only I knew my real
condition with the injury. I would be a far worse support than Vikrant.
I said, “It is still a great achievement
to start on the ridge. The accident was small and nothing bad happened. We
should be greatful for the good weather to achieve this with a small team of 5
climbers. I believe that no Indian team has done this before.”
We were glad that we were in good shape.
We wound the gear for return. I was keen to get into my sneakers as the wound
was painful. I was sick by the thought of previous “accidents” and “retreats”
with no success and it was an anchor that dragged me to my negative lows.
Next day we were back at base near Vasuki
Tal. It reminded me of the arduous retreat of Bharat Mangre after the 1986
Satopanth Mishap, with a porter. Whilst the others were buried in the
avalanche, Bharat and a porter were blown off and managed to escape the blast.
I have high respect for him. (I am told that towards the end of the crawl
he gave away his boots to the porter to save him.)
At
Vasuki tal, we saw a plaque with the names of Vijay Mahajan and Arundhati Joshi, who died i at Kalindi khal crossing. I had read of this story in
my school days and we paid our respect to this plaque. We were overloaded with
equipment and decided to stretch to Gangotri the same day in a fast descent. At
upper Nandanvan, a Blizzard greeted us and I was numb with cold till we got to
lower Nandanvan. But I could now hang my mountain boots on the ruck sack and
walk in my sneakers.
At Gomukh we hired porters and that shed
off some of the weight. I decided to keep the mountain boots with me,
remembering my cracked boots on Bhagirathi expedition.
The return to Chirbasa was slow. I was
tired and moved like a zombie. We reached Matri Nala and ran down the slope. My
foot was caught in shrub root and I fell flat on my face. I spat the grit.
Never in my life have I felt so negative about my ability. I decided to give up
Mountain climbing. With that small fall, I had concluded that I was not fit to
climb mountains. Perhaps the ghosts of
previous failures rode high on my mind and I was not in a positive mental state
to drive them away.
An
Australian trekker on route to Bhujbasa chatted with me. I mentioned that I was
a climber but I retire after this expedition. And she said, “That is a funny
decision. Once a climber, A climber for life. I am certain that you will forget
it soon.”
We
were back at Delhi. I had to travel to Nagpur to my Inlaws. I had no train
reservation and hence had to stand for most of the journey. I had a beard and heavy
sunburn and I am sure I smelled like a goat.
The
beam of my year old son, made me forget the gruel of the expedition. I
had learned to “fall” and give up, but my son was on his toes. He had just
learned to walk and wanted me as a witness.
The
news of the Everest expedition was bit of a joy, as my old friend Surendra had
made it to the top. Yet, something had snapped in my mind. I did not feel
connected with the Everest team anymore. I had no feelings, when I went to the dias
as an ex-member of the expedition. Good news that builds strong propaganda? I was the odd man out.
I was certain that I did not belong here. I
was happier with the tiny Satopanth team. I
was glad as my Everest friends were happy and they had the chance to prove their
mettle. I had blown up my only chance on Satopanth for whatever reasons. If I was strong enough, I should have pursued the climb.
I
distanced myself from the mountaineering circle. I severed ties that would make
me return to the mountains and I stopped reading Mountaineering literature. The heavenly path was not for me.
you got a great memory !! the pics add to the narrative ! Awesome !
ReplyDeleteThx Sujit. Good memory means bad cobwebs, dark alleys and ghosts. :)
DeleteToo good written...!
ReplyDeleteThx Amod.
Delete